Holidaire Rv Owners Manual

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Holiday Rambler Corporation is an American corporation which primarily manufactures recreational vehicles. It was founded in 1953. In 1961, Holiday Rambler's introduction of aluminum body framing ushered in a new era of lighter, stronger and more durable recreational vehicles (RVs). This aluminum frame (Alumaframe) became the standard for lighter and stronger RVs for 40 years. Holiday Rambler was also responsible for many firsts; built-in refrigerators, holding tanks and aerodynamic radiused corners. As Holiday Rambler moved into motorhomes, they were the first with tag axles and the kitchen slide-out revolutionized 'interior engineering' in the field.^[2] Holiday Rambler was sold to Harley-Davidson in 1986 and later in 1996 to the Monaco Coach Corporation where its future, then under Navistar International Corp., was difficult in 2010 as it was for most motorhome manufacturers.^[3][4]

In May 2013, Holiday Rambler was sold by Navistar International Corp. to Allied Specialty Vehicles.^[5]

History[edit]

Holidaire Rv Owners Manuals

Company founder Richard Klingler started building trailer parts in a chicken coop and assembling the trailers outdoors in the 1950s^[6] in Wakarusa, Indiana.^[7] The Elkhart and Wakarusa (ten miles (16 km) south of Elkhart) area of Indiana became the recreational vehicle (then called 'campers') capital of the US after World War II.^[6] The first Holiday Rambler recreational vehicle was a travel trailer introduced to the public in 1953 by the Klingler Corporation. A fully restored example is in the RV museum in Elkhart, Indiana. There is a watercolor painting of it by artist Paige Bridges.^[8]

Holiday Rambler Corporation and its subsidiaries ('Holiday Rambler') was acquired by the Harley-Davidson, Inc. in December 1986. Holiday Rambler's Recreational Vehicle division competed primarily in the mid to premium segment of the recreational vehicle market.^[1]

On March 4, 1996, the Monaco Coach Corporation of Oregon acquired from Harley-Davidson, Inc. certain assets of Holiday Rambler (the 'Holiday Acquisition') in exchange for $21.5 million in cash, 65,217 shares of Redeemable Preferred Stock (which was subsequently converted into 230,767 shares of Common Stock), and the assumption of most of the liabilities of Holiday Rambler. Concurrently, the Company acquired ten Holiday World Dealerships for $13.0 million, including a $12.0 million subordinated.^[9]

On June 23, 2009, Judge Kevin Carey agreed to the Monaco Coach Corporation's request to convert its Chapter 11 bankruptcy filing to a Chapter 7 case so it could liquidate its remaining assets. The order converting the case to Chapter 7 was effective June 30. Monaco Coach Corporation sold its factories, inventory, brands and intellectual property to Navistar International Corp. earlier in June for $47 million. Once the remaining assets were liquidated under Chapter 7, 'the entity ceases to exist,' and effectively spelled the end of Monaco Coach Corporation.^[10]

Models[edit]

Holiday Rambler manufactures motorhomes, which travel on their own power, and towables, which are designed to be pulled by a motor vehicle. All of these recreational vehicles have toilets and facilities for cooking and sleeping.

Motorhomes can be quite large and expensive. The Navigator prices start at $495,000 USD Manufacturer's Suggested Retail Price (MSRP).^[11] The Navigator is a Class A motorhome.

Class A Motorhomes[edit]

• Traveler
• Navigator
• Imperial
• Scepter
• Endeavor
• Ambassador
• Neptune
• Vacationer
• Admiral
• Arista
• Aluma-Lite
• Trip
• Limited

A Class A motor home has a large frame similar to that of a bus, but is built on its own specialized chassis. These large Holiday Rambler motorhomes can be 45 feet (14 m) long and 12 and 1/2 feet high. They can carry as much as 100 US gallons (380 L) of water and 100 US gallons (380 L) of diesel fuel. When fully loaded, these vehicles can weigh as much as 50,000 pounds.

Class B Motorhomes[edit]

• Augusta B+

A Class B motorhome is usually built on a cargo van chassis. These Holiday Rambler vehicles can carry as much as 35 US gallons (130 L) of water and 57 US gallons (220 L) of gasoline. When fully loaded, these vehicles can weigh as much as 20,000 pounds.

Class C Motorhomes[edit]

• Atlantis
• Aluma-Lite
• Presidential
• Traveler 24 (Built on Mercedes Sprinter chassis with 3l diesel engine)

A Class C motorhome is usually built on a truck chassis. These Holiday Rambler vehicles can carry as much as 29 US gallons (110 L) of water and 57 US gallons (220 L) of gasoline. When fully loaded, these vehicles can weigh as much as 14,000 pounds.

Fifth Wheel Towables[edit]

• Presidential Suite
• Presidential
• Imperial
• Alumascape Suite
• Alumascape
• Aluma-Lite
• Next Level
• Savoy LX FW
• Savoy LE FW

Fifth Wheel towables are trailers that are designed to connect to the towing vehicle between the front and rear axles. Usually these are towed by pickup trucks and the fifth wheel receiver is placed in the bed of the truck. These Holiday Rambler towables can carry as much as 70 US gallons (260 L) of water. When fully loaded, these vehicles can weigh as much as 17,000 pounds.

Bumper Pull Towables[edit]

• Savoy LX TT
• Savoy LE TT
• Mintaro
• Black Diamond
• Campmaster
• Aluma-Lite
• Rambler
• Traveler
• Statesman

Bumper Pull towables are designed to attach to the towing vehicle behind the rear axle on the bumper or on a receiver that is attached to the frame. These Holiday Rambler towables can carry as much as 50 US gallons (190 L) of water. When fully loaded, these vehicles can weigh as much as 10,000 pounds. These towables start at $20,000 USD Manufacturer's Suggested Retail Price (MSRP).

See also[edit]

References[edit]

1. ^ ^abHARLEY-DAVIDSON, INC. December 31, 1993 FORM 10-K
2. ^Holiday Rambler: Founded in 1953
3. ^Holiday Rambler
4. ^The Holiday Rambler RV: A Historic LookArchived 2011-07-15 at the Wayback Machine
5. ^'Archived copy'(PDF). Archived from the original(PDF) on 2014-04-15. Retrieved 2013-05-17.CS1 maint: archived copy as title (link)
6. ^ ^ab'The RV Capital – Fun Facts'. amishcountry.org. Archived from the original on September 22, 2009.
7. ^'The Lay of the Land: Bird's Eye View Of Trailerville'. Center for Land Use Interpretation. Archived from the original on May 5, 2008. Retrieved August 6, 2009.
8. ^'The First Holiday Rambler'. Colorado Chapters of HRRVC. Archived from the original on October 24, 2008.
9. ^MONACO COACH CORPORATION May 19, 1999 FORM 10-K
10. ^The Register-Guard: Monaco's case in final phase - June 24, 2009
11. ^'Holiday Rambler Navigator'. Archived from the original on 2009-09-08. Retrieved 2009-09-07.

External links[edit]

RV Plumbing isn't that much different from a traditional house type plumbing system. However, the generic RV Plumbing diagram below will help clear up a few issues.

If you find you need an actual RV Water schematic for your particular model, best to contact the manufacturer directly.

Fresh Water

Fresh water for your RV can be obtained 2 different ways. If you are hooked up to city water, it goes directly into the various lines within your RV and feeds water directly. We strongly encourage at least a basic water filter. It will keep small debris out of your water pump - it's designed to pump water - not debris!

If you are NOT hooked up to city water, the fresh water tank must be filled to store fresh water for you. Then when you turn your faucet on, water will come out! Between the fresh water tank and your various water outlets will be a 12 Volt DC Water Pump that pulls water from your tank and pressurizes your water lines - just like city water.

This water pump will have an on/off switch to start things. Depending on how your system is set up, most will have an air accumulator tank that will keep a certain amount of pressure within your system, before it gets too low and then requires the pump to cycle on. The beauty of the air accumulator is that is cycles the pump less frequently. You will always have a minimum of water pressure available to you.

Obviously, as you pull water from your tank, it is getting empty! Boondocking length of time will be directly related to your water reserve (usage!).

Some RV'ers will always fill their fresh water tank and draw needs from that - even if hooked to city water. That will become a matter of personal preference.

Much easier to remember to turn off the pump than walking around to the side of the RV and turning off the city water supply valve.

Water can be very damaging if allowed to get out of the tank or water lines, by mistake!!

If you are hooked to city water and leaving your RV, we strongly recommend turning off your water at the city inlet.

If you are using water from your tank instead - always turn the pump switch off, prior to leaving!

It has happened to many people - they come home to open their RV door and a flood of water gushes out! Opps!!!!!

A serious RV Plumbing mistake!!

Grey Water Tank

As the drawing at the top shows, all your various water drains will go to the Grey Tank. This tank can be/should be largest of the 2 waste tanks because it gets filled from the shower, sinks and kitchen drains. The Grey Water Tank will have a roof vent to keep any odors away.

This tank will have it's own Waste Gate Valve to drain it.

The shape of both the Black and Grey Tank is such that it has a 'low point' in it to facilitate it draining quickly. This picture doesn't show a vent hole, but it does have one. The purpose is to show the drain area design of an RV Plumbing waste system.

Great Video About Dumping Them!

Black Water Tank

The Black Water Waste Tank is a nice way of saying your toilet storage tank. Your RV is designed so only toilet waste is put into it.

The Black Waste Dump Tank will have it's own Waste Gate Valve to empty that tank. It will usually have a fresh water clean-out valve so your Black Tank can be rinsed out with fresh water, after draining it.

Take a look at our RV Toilet page to learn all about it and your Black Water Waste Tank

Tips and Tricks

1. Always turn your water supply off when leaving your RV!

2. Common Drain Hose for both Black and Grey Tanks - After securing drain hose, always 'test' the drain connections with some Grey Tank Waste FIRST! Then, drain the Black tank. Use the remainder of your Grey Tank Waste to clean the inside of your drain hose.

3.NEVER turn on your hot water heater unless you are positive it has water pressure from either city or your fresh water tank. Always let some hot water out of a faucet to be sure there isn't an air bubble.

4. Be sure to use a Pressure Regulator on your incoming lines BEFORE the water enters your RV Plumbing system from a city/campground source. Your RV is a rolling earthquake for all those fittings! City water pressure could easily be too high for your RV's system (40-55 lbs pressure MAX!) We have the pressure regulator shown to your right - available through Amazon, it works very well and you always know that your water pressure hoses are safe from too much pressure. We broke an older smaller type one and 'assumed' we wouldn't need one in an RV Park in San Antonio - their pressure should be fine!?!?! Guess what, about 2 hours later, we had a leak under the bathroom sink - into a cabinet full of 'stuff'! We've had this regulator ever since!!!

Yup, not cheap, but it sure is solid and trustworthy! Just 'talking' to a plumber will be more than this valve costs!!!!
5. As discussed on the RV Utilities page - NEVER put ANY water into your fresh water tank from a hose/spigot near a dump site!!

Rv Owners Manual

Monitor System for Utility Tanks

The three main holding tanks - fresh water, gray and black (sewer) all will have a similar system to tell the RV'er how much fluid is in the tanks. Unfortunately, the system is not real accurate. As the picture to the left shows, it usually will have 3 or 4 'sensors' in the side of the tank. As each sensor becomes 'activated' with fluid, it changes the monitor display inside the RV to indicate how full/empty the tanks are. As a result, if a tank sensor is 'just missing' the level in the tank, it will give a false impression to the owner. We've all come to 'not rely' 100% on the display.

A 'newer' system is a See Level Monitor System with Strip Sensor Devices that are incredibly accurate and tell you instantly what you really have within your system.

Take a look at this link for a great source for the See Level Monitor System.

Updating your system if it breaks or is not too accurate isn't difficult at all, if you have access to your tanks. Usually, the monitoring system is just inside a side door panel?

How to Calibrate Your Monitoring System, if it has adjusting Pods.

Here is an excellent video, featured in the RV Travel Newsletter (Feb, 2012) that was put together by the 'RV Geeks'. They are exactly what they imply - Geeks in the RV World - and they do an outstanding job of keeping us all informed!

Here it is.

Be sure to 'adjust' your pods very gently and at a minimum each 'adjustment'

Differences - House versus RV Plumbing?

A house type plumbing system pretty much takes care of itself. Water comes in from the city, pressurizes everything (including your water heater) goes down a common drain and away from you to a city sewer disposal plant or your own septic system.

Your RV Plumbing system needs to separate itself between Grey and Black Waste and water storage or constant city supply - remember, an RV is designed and built to travel and stay out on the road between 'utility stops'.

Use common sense when dealing with your RV Plumbing and you'll be fine!

A Class C motorhome is usually built on a truck chassis. These Holiday Rambler vehicles can carry as much as 29 US gallons (110 L) of water and 57 US gallons (220 L) of gasoline. When fully loaded, these vehicles can weigh as much as 14,000 pounds.

Fifth Wheel Towables[edit]

• Presidential Suite
• Presidential
• Imperial
• Alumascape Suite
• Alumascape
• Aluma-Lite
• Next Level
• Savoy LX FW
• Savoy LE FW

Fifth Wheel towables are trailers that are designed to connect to the towing vehicle between the front and rear axles. Usually these are towed by pickup trucks and the fifth wheel receiver is placed in the bed of the truck. These Holiday Rambler towables can carry as much as 70 US gallons (260 L) of water. When fully loaded, these vehicles can weigh as much as 17,000 pounds.

Bumper Pull Towables[edit]

• Savoy LX TT
• Savoy LE TT
• Mintaro
• Black Diamond
• Campmaster
• Aluma-Lite
• Rambler
• Traveler
• Statesman

Bumper Pull towables are designed to attach to the towing vehicle behind the rear axle on the bumper or on a receiver that is attached to the frame. These Holiday Rambler towables can carry as much as 50 US gallons (190 L) of water. When fully loaded, these vehicles can weigh as much as 10,000 pounds. These towables start at $20,000 USD Manufacturer's Suggested Retail Price (MSRP).

See also[edit]

References[edit]

1. ^ ^abHARLEY-DAVIDSON, INC. December 31, 1993 FORM 10-K
2. ^Holiday Rambler: Founded in 1953
3. ^Holiday Rambler
4. ^The Holiday Rambler RV: A Historic LookArchived 2011-07-15 at the Wayback Machine
5. ^'Archived copy'(PDF). Archived from the original(PDF) on 2014-04-15. Retrieved 2013-05-17.CS1 maint: archived copy as title (link)
6. ^ ^ab'The RV Capital – Fun Facts'. amishcountry.org. Archived from the original on September 22, 2009.
7. ^'The Lay of the Land: Bird's Eye View Of Trailerville'. Center for Land Use Interpretation. Archived from the original on May 5, 2008. Retrieved August 6, 2009.
8. ^'The First Holiday Rambler'. Colorado Chapters of HRRVC. Archived from the original on October 24, 2008.
9. ^MONACO COACH CORPORATION May 19, 1999 FORM 10-K
10. ^The Register-Guard: Monaco's case in final phase - June 24, 2009
11. ^'Holiday Rambler Navigator'. Archived from the original on 2009-09-08. Retrieved 2009-09-07.

External links[edit]

RV Plumbing isn't that much different from a traditional house type plumbing system. However, the generic RV Plumbing diagram below will help clear up a few issues.

If you find you need an actual RV Water schematic for your particular model, best to contact the manufacturer directly.

Fresh Water

Fresh water for your RV can be obtained 2 different ways. If you are hooked up to city water, it goes directly into the various lines within your RV and feeds water directly. We strongly encourage at least a basic water filter. It will keep small debris out of your water pump - it's designed to pump water - not debris!

If you are NOT hooked up to city water, the fresh water tank must be filled to store fresh water for you. Then when you turn your faucet on, water will come out! Between the fresh water tank and your various water outlets will be a 12 Volt DC Water Pump that pulls water from your tank and pressurizes your water lines - just like city water.

This water pump will have an on/off switch to start things. Depending on how your system is set up, most will have an air accumulator tank that will keep a certain amount of pressure within your system, before it gets too low and then requires the pump to cycle on. The beauty of the air accumulator is that is cycles the pump less frequently. You will always have a minimum of water pressure available to you.

Obviously, as you pull water from your tank, it is getting empty! Boondocking length of time will be directly related to your water reserve (usage!).

Some RV'ers will always fill their fresh water tank and draw needs from that - even if hooked to city water. That will become a matter of personal preference.

Much easier to remember to turn off the pump than walking around to the side of the RV and turning off the city water supply valve.

Water can be very damaging if allowed to get out of the tank or water lines, by mistake!!

If you are hooked to city water and leaving your RV, we strongly recommend turning off your water at the city inlet.

If you are using water from your tank instead - always turn the pump switch off, prior to leaving!

It has happened to many people - they come home to open their RV door and a flood of water gushes out! Opps!!!!!

A serious RV Plumbing mistake!!

Grey Water Tank

As the drawing at the top shows, all your various water drains will go to the Grey Tank. This tank can be/should be largest of the 2 waste tanks because it gets filled from the shower, sinks and kitchen drains. The Grey Water Tank will have a roof vent to keep any odors away.

This tank will have it's own Waste Gate Valve to drain it.

The shape of both the Black and Grey Tank is such that it has a 'low point' in it to facilitate it draining quickly. This picture doesn't show a vent hole, but it does have one. The purpose is to show the drain area design of an RV Plumbing waste system.

Great Video About Dumping Them!

Black Water Tank

The Black Water Waste Tank is a nice way of saying your toilet storage tank. Your RV is designed so only toilet waste is put into it.

The Black Waste Dump Tank will have it's own Waste Gate Valve to empty that tank. It will usually have a fresh water clean-out valve so your Black Tank can be rinsed out with fresh water, after draining it.

Take a look at our RV Toilet page to learn all about it and your Black Water Waste Tank

Tips and Tricks

1. Always turn your water supply off when leaving your RV!

2. Common Drain Hose for both Black and Grey Tanks - After securing drain hose, always 'test' the drain connections with some Grey Tank Waste FIRST! Then, drain the Black tank. Use the remainder of your Grey Tank Waste to clean the inside of your drain hose.

3.NEVER turn on your hot water heater unless you are positive it has water pressure from either city or your fresh water tank. Always let some hot water out of a faucet to be sure there isn't an air bubble.

4. Be sure to use a Pressure Regulator on your incoming lines BEFORE the water enters your RV Plumbing system from a city/campground source. Your RV is a rolling earthquake for all those fittings! City water pressure could easily be too high for your RV's system (40-55 lbs pressure MAX!) We have the pressure regulator shown to your right - available through Amazon, it works very well and you always know that your water pressure hoses are safe from too much pressure. We broke an older smaller type one and 'assumed' we wouldn't need one in an RV Park in San Antonio - their pressure should be fine!?!?! Guess what, about 2 hours later, we had a leak under the bathroom sink - into a cabinet full of 'stuff'! We've had this regulator ever since!!!

Yup, not cheap, but it sure is solid and trustworthy! Just 'talking' to a plumber will be more than this valve costs!!!!
5. As discussed on the RV Utilities page - NEVER put ANY water into your fresh water tank from a hose/spigot near a dump site!!

Rv Owners Manual

Monitor System for Utility Tanks

The three main holding tanks - fresh water, gray and black (sewer) all will have a similar system to tell the RV'er how much fluid is in the tanks. Unfortunately, the system is not real accurate. As the picture to the left shows, it usually will have 3 or 4 'sensors' in the side of the tank. As each sensor becomes 'activated' with fluid, it changes the monitor display inside the RV to indicate how full/empty the tanks are. As a result, if a tank sensor is 'just missing' the level in the tank, it will give a false impression to the owner. We've all come to 'not rely' 100% on the display.

A 'newer' system is a See Level Monitor System with Strip Sensor Devices that are incredibly accurate and tell you instantly what you really have within your system.

Take a look at this link for a great source for the See Level Monitor System.

Updating your system if it breaks or is not too accurate isn't difficult at all, if you have access to your tanks. Usually, the monitoring system is just inside a side door panel?

How to Calibrate Your Monitoring System, if it has adjusting Pods.

Here is an excellent video, featured in the RV Travel Newsletter (Feb, 2012) that was put together by the 'RV Geeks'. They are exactly what they imply - Geeks in the RV World - and they do an outstanding job of keeping us all informed!

Here it is.

Be sure to 'adjust' your pods very gently and at a minimum each 'adjustment'

Differences - House versus RV Plumbing?

A house type plumbing system pretty much takes care of itself. Water comes in from the city, pressurizes everything (including your water heater) goes down a common drain and away from you to a city sewer disposal plant or your own septic system.

Your RV Plumbing system needs to separate itself between Grey and Black Waste and water storage or constant city supply - remember, an RV is designed and built to travel and stay out on the road between 'utility stops'.

Use common sense when dealing with your RV Plumbing and you'll be fine!

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